A dead windlass at 6 a.m. in Drake's Bay is a bad day. Most windlass failures are electrical, not mechanical.
What to Check
1
Solenoid / contactor
The big relay under the windlass takes a beating. Bypass it briefly to confirm — if the motor runs, the solenoid is bad.
2
Battery voltage at the windlass
Windlasses pull 80–150 amps. Voltage drop on long cable runs starves the motor. Measure at the windlass under load.
3
Foot switch corrosion
Salt-corroded deck switches stop passing current. Spray with contact cleaner or replace.
4
Motor brushes worn
After 10+ seasons, brushes wear out. Pull the motor end cap and inspect.
When to Call Us
We rebuild Lewmar, Maxwell, Quick, and Lofrans windlasses in our shop, and carry common solenoids and switches in the truck.